Hints & Tips

Archive for the ‘Jeans’ Category

You need to cut a piece of fabric of similar weight and a stretch behind the tear but instead of zig zag, try sewing back and forward into the grain of the fabric.  If you really look at it you will see lines (usually) on an angle.  This is the weave of the fabric.  If you find a thread colour similar to the colour of the jeans, then you secure the piece of fabric behind and stitch back and forward to cover the tear.  If the tear is close to the seam, unpick the seam.  Do not try and repair over a seam.  It doesn’t work.  Take the extra time to have easy access to the tear.  You will be happier with the finish repair.  Also.  I use a product called vizafex.  It is a two sides sticky used in appliqué.  I use that to secure the fabric behind.  One side peels off and you iron that on to one side, then you peel off the other piece of paper and iron it to the garment.  If you would like to see a photo of what I mean, email me

Judith aka genie

You can take the band off and lower however explain to the customer that the pockets can not be moved, which means you can only come down so far.  The band could be stitched on with a chain stitch in which case it would be easy to unpick, or you may have to unpick each stitch.  A quick way to do this is to slice using a razor blade or Stanley knife blade.  Be careful, but this technique is excellent for unpicking jean stitching quickly.  The belt loops are a little harder to unpick, but I carefully slice the zigzag on the back and then it should undo quickly.

 The problem with lowering at the waist is that the customer must understand that the band is going to get tighter because it is lower on the hip.  That means you may have to put an extension in the band.  If the jeans are a bit loose you dont have to but usually this is not the case.  Measure the width 1″ down, and I would be measuring the client as well.  Or ask her to push the jeans down to the position she wants the band, which means it will look baggy in the crotch.  That way you can see if the band is too tight at the position she wants it.  The extension can go in the back (a piece of denim same colour) or you can put some imitation suede or leather.  Something that looks ok.

 The other thing is to put the extension on the end of the band that goes UNDER the buttonhole.  But there is usually a jean button which means taking that off but that means the extension is longer.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Jeans don’t have darts or pleats to release, but generally a manufacturer will sew stabilizing tape around the top of the jeans.  They also can sew stabilizing tape around the top of the band in between the fabric.  This means there is absolutely no stretch at all in the band.  When you take the band off you and any tape, you will notice that the fabric will be quite stretchy.  Also take the tape off from the top of the band if there is any and you can then put your band back on and you will have picked up maybe 5cm (2in).

 If the jeans have stretched substantially at the waist, you could attach an extension.  I would suggest you put this in the centre back because most jeans have a stud and button hole.  The best place is under the leather label.  No one would see the extension.

 Happy sewing

 Judith aka genie

There are a number of ways to put the original hem back on jeans.  It comes down to the thickness of the jean fabric.  One technique I use encases the off cut so that it looks almost perfect.  For this method you need to unpick the stitching and re stitch afterwards. 

Sometimes you come across a pair of jeans with a very unusual cotton colour.  If you are not able to match the colour, then you may want to use the second technique which is reattaching the hem, and then cutting off the excess and over locking around the edge.  I would always top stitch to ensure the fabric does not fall down, and I would stitch in a colour almost identical to the jean fabric.

If the jeans are not going up too much, you may get away with turning the jeans inside out, and folding the fabric over just above the stitch line.  If you use this option, mark it first, and I usually use the zipper foot, so I get very close to the stitching.

In all cases you must line up the inside and outside leg seams.

TIP:  To get a thick professional looking hem, sew topside using two threads on the machine.  Instructions for this technique are in my book.

 Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

You may notice on some jeans that the band is very firm.  There is no stretch in the band – top or bottom.  This is because most manufacturers sew a piece of tape (with no stretch) onto raw edge at the top of the waist before they sew the band on.  They can also sew tape to the top of the band on the inside.  One quick and easy way to get more room in jeans is to unpick the tape and sew the band back on.  If you want even more room. put an extension in the band.  If your jeans have a leather label over the waist band, take this off, and put the extension in this position so that when the leather label goes back on you will not see the extension.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

There are a number of ways to put the original finished hem back onto jeans, and you can do it using your domestic sewing machine.  My book Clothing Alteration Secrets Revealed covers one of the techniques, but there are other methods, depending on what the existing hem looks like.  For more information on my technique go to www.geniecentre.com

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

I am always asked the same question by new customers, “Will the hem look the same as it is now after you shorten it?”  The answer is a resounding “YES”.  Putting a professional jeans hem on jeans CAN be done on your domestic sewing machine.  If you want to do it and have a fool proof system, then buy my book Genie Clothing Alteration Secrets Revealed, because on the front cover is my invention which I call the “Jean Genie”.  This little device is used when pinning, preparing and sewing your jeans hem.  So if you want to be the professional on your domestic sewing machine go to www.geniecentre.com and purchase my book.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

There are a number of ways to put the original hem back on jeans.  It comes down to the thickness of the jean fabric.  One technique I use encases the off cut so that it looks almost perfect.  For this method you need to unpick the stitching and restitch afterwards.  If you are not able to match the colour, then you may want to use the second technique which is reattaching, then cutting off the excess and over locking around the edge.  I would always top stitch to ensure the fabric does not fall down, and I would stitch in a colour almost identical to the jean fabric.

If the jeans are not going up too much, you may get away with turning the jeans inside out, and folding the fabric over just above the stitch line.  If you use this option, mark it first, and I usually use the zipper foot, so I get very close to the stitching.

For the first technique you will need to purchase my book, Genie Clothing Alteration Secrets Revealed.  It has illustrations as well as Steps for you to follow.  www.geniecentre.com

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie