Archive for the ‘Stretch garments’ Category
A lady called to enquire if I could cut the feet out of a pair of machine knitted tights for her small daughter. Her daughter does ballet, and the tights were for ballet, but she wanted the feet removed so she can wear them normally. She had taken them to a clothing alteration shop and was told they could not be altered, because they would ladder.
They can be altered with just a little care. Normally if I was shortening something that was a machine knit, I would sew a row of stitching just above the cut line, but because these had feet, I decided to cut the feet off first, then stitched above the new cut line, I then overlocked just below the stitch line, turned and stitched the hem up, sewing topside, and sewing with my button hole foot. I learned this little trick in my shops. The normal domestic sewing machine foot can tend to slip on a stretch fabric, so one day I thought “what about the plastic buttonhole foot”? It has those little ridges underneath, and they then to grip onto the fabric stopping any slide. If you sew topside, in other words, you are sewing on the right side of the fabric, and the hem is underneath, you will get a beautiful stitch. Once you have the first row of stitching done, go back and sew a second row next to the first, using a reference point on the foot to guide you, keeping the same distance from the first row of stitching.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
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Don’t be afraid to take in the sides of a knitted garment. The only machine I would not put a knitted garment near is a blind hemming machine. You could through the timing of the needle because the needle could get caught in the knit and your needle may break or at worst through the timing, which usually means getting the mechanic in to fix it.
I use Stretch needles when sewing any type of knit. They are 75/11 and I find they are excellent for these types of fabrics.
For a very open knit, I tend to push the knit in towards the needle so I am not stretching it as I go. Try to keep it in the same shape as you sew. Overlock the excess or cut and bind.
In most cases I would never unpick the seam of a knit unless I was absolutely sure I was not going to unravel the knitting.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
Do you have one of these in your wardrobe and you don’t wear it because the neck is too big? I have found an easy solution. Buy yourself some shearing elastic, and a needle with a big eye, and a blunt end, or use a bodkin. You should be able to push the needle through and into the band area around the neckline. Begin at the back where the label is positioned. Thread the shearing around the neckline inside the band (knitted area) and leave yourself a good amount so that you can make any adjustments to the elastic.
When you have pulled the neckline in to the new desired width, knot the elastic and tuck it into the band. If you do have to undo the band, just unpick one or two stitches only and resew it later. Be careful the knit doesn’t ladder on you.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
Tops that have been hand knitted can be altered. I have had success using the walking foot. This foot can be purchased as mosts shops that sell sewing machines, or in haberdashery shops. They range in price but are around $60.00. The foot literally WALKS over the knit. They are also excellent for leather. The normal sewing machine foot can tend to stretch the knit as you sew.
If you are taking in a knitted top, sew the sides in as you would any other garment, although I feel it is better to ensure that the sleeves are on the round. That means, I don’t sew through from the sleeves to the sides. I sew the side and the sleeve separately, then sew the sleeve last.
If you are shortening the top from the sleeve area, and the knitted top is too big, generally you can sew the shoulder and the sleeve at the same time, without taking the sleeve out. Just make sure again that you sew it on the round. I also usually never iron the garment after altering. It can squash the knit.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
The type of knit top I am talking about is one that has been knitted on a knitting machine, which means the hem is finished with a rib. There is no over locking on this type of garment. First thing to remember is dont cut anything until you sew a row of stitching just above where you are going to cut. You do this because knitting ladders just like a stocking, so you need to protect the stitches. By sewing a row of stitching around the garment you are helping to stop the laddering. If you have an over locker/serger then over lock the edge. If you dont, then sew some bias binding on the edge and turn over so it covers the cut edge.
Fold up the hem and either hand stitch, or if you want to machine stitch, then you MUST sew what I call topside. That is the right side of the garment is facing you.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
Ever buy a top and the knit around the neck unravels? Find a cotton colour that matches the knit and catch the stitches of the knit one at a time and stitch back onto the neck of the garment. Repeat the same process on the opposite side. Always look at the right side when repairing knits, so you can see what it will look like when repaired.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
The way to stop stretch fabric from pulling or puckering is to sew with the right side of the fabric facing you. I call this sewing “topside”. You may need to practice a little before you let yourself loose on a garment, but basically what happens is that the feed dogs (they are the metal teeth that move up and down under your sewing machine needle) move up and down and they can cause the fabric underneath to move out of alignment with the top layer. This means the fabric twists on itself.
Therefore if you have the right side of the fabric on the underside as you are sewing, it will tend to twist the fabric.
You can see a lot of garments that have twisted hems in fashion stores. These garments have been sewn without any care of workmanship. When I had my shops, I taught my team how to sew topside. When customers picked up they were pleasantly surprised to find the hem looked better than it was originally.
I way to sew “topside” is as follows:-
1. Cut the new hem length, making sure you allow for the hem allowance. I usually leave 1″/2cm to 1 1/4″/3cm as a hem allowance on stretch fabric.
2. Overlock the edge.
3. I always mark my hem allowance with a little dash from some chalk so I know where to fold. My technique for marking a hem allowance is illustrated in my book.
4. Pin up the new hem with the pins pointing down. Pin head should be facing the top of the garment.
5. I use my button hole foot to sew stretch fabric. It has little grooves under the foot and it tends to stablise the fabric better than a foot with a smooth edge underneath. Depending on the fabric if you use a smooth foot, it can tend to grab the fabric and twist it as well.
6. Place the garment with the right side of the garment on top and put under the sewing machine foot.
7. Begin sewing at a side seam, but on the back leg or back seam.
8. You should be able to see the ridge from the overlocking. Place your needle in the centre of this ridge. With my buttonhole foot, I find I can have the inside edge of the left hand side of my sewing machine foot on the edge of the overlocking and I always sew in the middle of the overlocking. Practice does make perfect.
9. If you want two rows of stitching move the fabric across so the first row of stitching in sitting under the centre of the left hand side leg of your sewing machine foot. Sew around the hem making sure you keep the first row of stitching under this position all the way. You don’t have to watch your stitching. Watch where the 1st row is in conjunction with your machine foot.
10. If you have twin needles then use them instead of overlocking. The twin needle with create a zig zag effect underneath, which will stablise the fabric edge. You can get a variety of sized twin needles.
Happy sewing
Judith aka Genie