These zips will take the most time to replace.  As you all know I am in Australia and I charge my customers up to $65.00 to replace a jacket zip in a lined garment.  Because I work on AUD$44.00 per hour, by the time I unpick the old zip, and put the new one in it takes over an hour.  Some people will be in shock when I give them to price, but I always do this BEFORE I take the job.  That way there are not shocks AFTER the work is done.  If you explain why it will cost this much money, they can decide if the jacket is worth it or not.  Some people will say no, but others will have it done, because they love the jacket and they can’t get another one like it.  Remember that if you under charge for your work, you are going to become resentful and if you become resentful you will not love what you are doing.  If you know that you will be paid for doing the job, you will do a good job.

When you unpick the jacket, have a look at how it is done.  Not all jackets are done the same, but there is a common method to them all.  With the zip unpicked you will be able to put your hand through the inside of the jacket lining from one side to the other.  Attach the lining to the back side of the zip on both sides.  Make sure that they are even.  Now pop one side through to the other side and sew the front of the zipper onto the jacket.  I do not mean the top stitching here but rather the right side of the outer to the right side of the zipper. You probably should pin into place first.  Sew with the fabric at the top so you can sew back into the same stitch holes.  When finished bag the top and the bottom of the zip on this side.  Pop it back through to the right side.  Now you need to open a seam in the lining so that you can pop the side not done through the lining to do the work.  Follow the same procedure as the other side, bag the top and bottom then close the opening in the lining by sewing a row of stitching close to the edge.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

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