Hints & Tips

Layering has been in fashion for a while, and there are some gorgeous tops that require a singlet or tee shirt underneath so that you cannot see the bra.  After a while you can get stick of having to put something on underneath, and would maybe like to just wear the top with a bra.  A quick and easy solution is to find some fabric that matches or is similar to the top in colour.  Put the top on and raise your arm so that you can see long the gusset needs to be from the bottom of the armhole up towards your armpit.  Then measure the width you want the top of the gusset to be.  For example it will probably be around 10 cm (4″) in length and have a width at the top of 5 cm (2″).  The bottom will not be into a point, but should be rounded in the same shape as the existing armhole.  Make a template out of cardboard with the correct measurements, then increase for seam allowance.

 Fold the fabric you will be using in half, so that the fold will be at the top under the arm.  Cut out your gusset x 2 and overlock the edges or bind if you don’t have an overlocker.  Pin into place, and then sew.

 Now you can wear that lovely top without having to wear a singlet or tee shirt underneath.

 Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

To get into women’s lined jackets; you will find a seam that has been closed inside one of the sleeves in the lining.  For men’s jackets, you will have to make an opening in the lining in the body of the garment, because the sleeves will be closed at the top of the sleeve.  Occasionally, you will come across a jacket for men that are made in the same way a woman’s jacket is.

 Step 1 – Unpick the inside arm seam of the lining.

Step 2 – Pop the whole jacket out through the opening.  When you first do this, you may feel a little strange, but get into the habit of altering from the inside.  It is quicker and easier.  Pop your hand in and grab hold of the corner furthest away from you.  Pull that through the opening.  Then pop your hand in and grab the corner of the jacket closest to you.  Then pop the collar through.

Step 3 – For this example the jacket is straight across with no split

Step 4 – The hem will be attached at each seam to hold it up.  Unpick the hem from the attached seam.

Step 5 – The front panels can be manufactured in a number of ways:- 

Option 1 – The front facing and the lining are joined all the way through. It will look like it has been bagged straight across from the edge to the end of the front inside panel.  The stitching then tapers across and down by the hem allowance. 

Option 2 – The lining is separate from the front inside panel, and has been joined before the hem has been turned up.

Step 6 – Mark the amount that you are going up on the wrong side of the outer fabric not the right side. 

Step 7 – You will be measuring from the fold line (original hem) up to the new hem length.  Mark all the way around the jacket, marking at seams and in between.  Mark the lining the same amount.  This will be the amount you are shortening the jacket by, then you will mark below this amount by 1.2 cm (1/2″).  This is the seam allowance.  If Option 2 – Cut the outer fabric separate to the lining EXCEPT the front and the inside front panels that are joined.  Cut these together up to the edge of the inside front panel.  Then cut the outer and the lining separate.

 Short cut for Option 1 – Mark up the amount you are shortening the jacket, and then down the hem allowance, and BEFORE YOU CUT – stitch 1.2 cm (1/2″) above the hem allowance.  Cut on the bottom chalk mark and proceed as follows:-

Step 8 – Lay the jacket on the ironing board, and iron the jacket flat.

Step 9 – Iron interfacing on to the hem allowance placing the interfacing in between each seam.  My interfacing is usually 5 cm (2″) wide because most hem allowances are 4cm (1 ½”) wide.  The interfacing should be between the cut line and the new fold line.  Not above the fold line.

Step 10 – Bag the two front sections together.  When you ironed up the hem allowance, you will have made sure the two fronts are even.

Bag the right side front, then the left side front, and check to see they are even. 

Step 11 – Pin the side facing to the outer fabric on the hem on each front section.

Step 12 – Pin the lining to the outer fabric.  I do a 1 cm (1/2″) hem allowance.

Step 13 – For the rest of the jacket, sew just above the bottom chalk mark.  This means you sew from the edge of the facing to the opposite facing.

Step 14 – Cut off the excess fabric on the cut line.

Step 15 – Iron the hem up by having the garment with the inside facing you, and iron up the hem allowance.  Use the end of the ironing board.

Step 16 – Fold the hem allowance over to the lining and iron into place.

Step 17 – Do this all the way around the jacket hem.

Step 18 – Attach the hem to the seams at each section.

Step 19 – Pop the jacket out through the opening in the sleeve. 

Step 20 – Re-iron the hem and if you marked correctly, the hem should be straight.

Step 21 – Close the opening in the sleeve.

 If you have a jacket that has a curved front panel, make a template by placing a piece of cardboard underneath one front curve and draw around the outline.  Cut your template.  When you have the jacket inside out, lay the template over the front panel and draw your curved outline (this is on the wrong side of the fabric because it is inside out) and this is your stitch line.  Proceed as per above for the rest of the jacket.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Shortening a lined suit jacket takes some concentration but can be achieved without too much fuss if you know what you are doing in advance.  This type of jacket is longer than a bomber jacket which finishes around the waist or upper hip area.  To determine the average length of a suit jacket, stand in front of a mirror and lower your right arm with the elbow locked straight.  Raise your thumb in a 45° angle.  This is the perfect length for your body shape.  A jacket on a person who is 183 cm (6′) tall will be a different length from someone who is 163 cm (5′4″).  The length of your upper body and the length of your arms will determine your perfect length.  A jacket that is too long will make a shorter person look even shorter, and may give the impression that they are bigger in the upper body than they really are.  This means that shorter people need to have their jackets shortened to their perfect length for a better self image.

 Shortening a lined jacket (no splits) is one of the most challenging of clothing alterations, or may seem so in the beginning.  Just the thought can put a lot of people off and send them running to a clothing alteration shop.  We have talked about what a person should be charging for clothing alterations, and this is one of the most expensive.  Because I work from home, I charge $40.00 plus GST (10% tax) which is $44.00 per hour (USD$36 and GBP£24).  And it would take me around one hour to shorten a lined jacket, so I would be charging AUD$44.00.  If you add splits into the equation, maybe one at the back or one either side, then the price would increase.  Keeping in mind that the more you shorten a jacket, the more the chances that the split cannot be kept.  The fabric for a split is cut away above the split, so the higher you are shortening the jacket the less fabric you have.  You need at least 5 cm (2 in) to put a split back on, and that is the bare minimum.  I would prefer more than that for it to look reasonable.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

I am in my 50’s so I have been around long enough to see the cycle of fashion.  Hipster was in when I was a young girl, and then high waisted came in at my most informative years.  Because I had a bit of excess weight on at that time, I preferred the high waisted, and have always kept my trousers and skirts at the waist.  I could not be converted to the low hipster style garment.  So when I find a pair of stretch pants that I like, which are low waisted, I buy them, take the old band off and replace it with a wider band that is 5 cm (2″) wider.  Plus I do a cross over at the front which looks nice.

Cut a piece of stretch fabric that is your waist measurement – less 5 cm (2″) for firmness – plus 30 cm (12″) for crossover.   The cross over begins just past the side seam.  This means you will have a “V” in the front and the bands at the front should overlap a good 15cm (6″).

You can cut the old band off, or unpick.  By unpicking you keep a little of the fabric from the body.  Measure a pair of stretch trousers you have that are comfortable.  Measure the rise – crotch to top at centre front. Write this amount down and measure the crotch to the top at the centre back.  Write this measurement down.  If you want it to be exact at the sides, measure from the hem up to the top of the pair you like and write this measurement down.  Or you can just taper the front to the back.

Now measure the new trousers in the same locations – centre front, centre back and sides from the hem.  Calculate the difference and allow for seam allowance.  Find yourself a good stretch fabric, making sure to have the stretch going around the body. 

You may find that you need the front to be higher than the back, or the other way around.  The sides will be another measurement.  You can make a template using paper, Vilene or calico.  Once you have the band the right measurement at the front, sides and back, plus the extra for the front crossover, fold your stretch fabric in half with the fold at the top.  Cut your piece out, allowing for seams.  Pin into place with the fold at the top.  Begin at the centre back.  Pin around to the sides and lay the front crossover on top of each other.  Sew the new band on and overlock excess. 

If you find the fabric is not firm enough, you could attach some elastic around the top of the trousers before you put the band on.  Or you could sew some elastic around the fold on the inside of the new band.

To save having to do this, I always use good firm elastic, and take the time to make sure I have the measurements right the first time.

Tip for the month – Have you got a cardigan or top that is buttoned down the front, and it gaps around the bust area?  I had a blouse in my wardrobe, great style and beautiful fabric in a burgundy colour.  But it never got worn because it gaped in the front.  You know how a painter’s house is never painted?  Same goes in my house.  Anyway, you will be pleased to know that I have now stitched it down with the buttons still there, so it looks like it is buttoned up, and because it was a little square looking, I put two darts under the bust down to the hem.  Now it looks great and I don’t have to worry about the gaping.

Method – Pin the front down, so that the edges are flush.  Use a thread colour that is the same as the garment or the thread that is used.  Stitch down the edge trying to stitch over the top of the existing stitch line.  If the buttons are big, you may have to take them off and put them back on after you have stitched it down.  You only need to do the one row of stitching down the edge.  Make sure you have the top and bottom even before you sew.  If you are stitching a knit, try using your buttonhole foot.  Mine has a ridge underneath, and it helps to stop the knit from slipping.

Sewing on buttons – Instead of doing it by hand, use your sewing machine.  Again I use my buttonhole foot which holds the button in place.  Remember the zigzag is on the width of the holes and the straight stitch is on zero (0).  If you want it really neat, you can thread the thread to the back and knot off.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Stretch pants can grow as they get older.  I have some old favorites that I love, which I repair and patch.  One of my old favorites needs to be taken in at the waist, but rather than take bands off etc., I attached some elastic at the back of the band – centre back.  Elastic should be about 3 cm (2 ¼”) wide and cut into a 10cm (4″) stripe.  Place a dot in the centre of the elastic.  This will be the centre back seam position.  You will be stretching 5 cm (2″) into 7.5cm (3″).  Place a dot at 7.5 cm (3″) from the centre back seam and secure the elastic.  Do the same on the opposite side.  Then sew across the top, stretching as you go, and then stitch the bottom.  This takes the stretchy pants in by 5 cm (2″).

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

If you have a sleeve that is too long, a quick option is to sew elastic, or sherring elastic around the sleeve.  This could be above the elbow, below the elbow or around the wrist or at locations all the way down the arm.  It is better to open seams the same as for the waist to ensure that the sherring begins at the edge of the fabric, rather than having a join that can be seen. 

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Another method to shorten a top or dress that hangs straight down is to sew sherring elastic around the waist.  To ensure that the elastic does not pull away, unpick the side seams so that you have sufficient room to begin sewing at the edge of the fabric.  The sherring elastic is wound on to your bobbin by hand.  Make sure you wind it on firm rather than having it too loose, but not tight.  The wider you have the stitch length, the more it will gather.  Mark or place pins where you will stitch so that you sew in a straight line.  Never use ball point pens or pencils that cannot be washed out.  Sew your second row beside the first, making sure to keep the edge of your sewing machine foot against the first row of stitching.  Continue doing this until you are happy with the amount of rows you like.  I wouldn’t do less than six for effect.

You may prefer to have the sherring around the hip area, or if the fabric is very soft, you could sew the sherring around the hip area, and then push it up to the waist, allowing the fabric to flop over the sherring.  I would only suggest people who are slim use this option, because it can add bulk to your body shape.

Once you have sewn all your rows, stitch across the ends on the side seam BEFORE you join the front and back together.  This will ensure the ends do not come out.  Overlock or bind the side seams once the seams are joined.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

If you have a tee shirt or top that is too long and need a quick fix, try sewing some elastic on to the side seams. I prefer to use elastic that is .6 cm (1/4″) wide, because if the elastic is too wide it will curl.

No need to unpick the hem.  Begin by catching the elastic to the side seam about 8 cm (4″) below the armhole.  Use a zig zag stitch the width of the elastic, but have it so the stitch is wide apart.  Attach the elastic then give it a slight pull as you sew.  The more you pull the tighter the gather.  Attach the elastic down to the top of the hem.  Stop and lock off, then cut the elastic.  Repeat on the opposite side.  This pulls the long tee shirt or top up and gives a nice feature as well.

An added benefit for a lot of people will be the impression you have a waist.  I am thick around the middle, but this feature makes me look like I have a waist.

Other garments you can do this will are the bottom of trousers attaching on either side at the bottom and on the sleeves of tops.

Another option is to stitch elastic on from the hem UP towards the top.  A tee shirt would be a good one for this.  Measure the width from side seam to side seam, then divide the amount evenly across from side to side.  You can have the elastic close together or a little apart.  The affect will change depending on your preference.  Turn the garment inside out and rule across from side to side the point where you will stop.  This way you will have them all even.  Stitch in a thread colour close to the colour of the garment.  I would straight stitch the elastic on in this instance, rather than zig zag, and I would choose elastic that is as thin as possible.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

I talked before about the Oscars and other shows where the people are dressed superbly, but the hems are too long.  Trousers can fray at the bottom after half an hour of scraping on the ground.  It may only be the back, but that is enough for them to look tatty after one wear.  The problem with this is that usually trousers are JUST A LITTLE BIT TOO LONG.  That means when they fray, you are left with no hem allowance if you cut at the fray.  So your choice is a false hem, which isn’t a bad thing, or you could try this little technique.  Iron the trousers so that the frayed section is sitting flat.  Have the person try them on and pin at the correct length.  Let’s say it is 1cm (1/2”) above the fray.  You need to calculate what the hem allowance will be.  For ladies I do a 4cm (1½”) hem allowance and for men I do a 5cm (2”) hem allowance. 

 Turn the trousers inside out. 

 Place the tape measure on the original hem fold, with the tape at 1cm (1/2”) at this point.  Place a mark above the fold at the end of the tape measure, then come down to 1cm (1/2”) BELOW the original hem fold and place a mark, then down another 4cm (1½”) for ladies or 5cm (2”) for men.

 Cut on the bottom line.  If the hem has to be unpicked, then unpick the hem first. 

 Check to see that the hem allowance will fit up into the trousers.  If it doesn’t then release at the side seams, or take in if the trousers are flared.  All of this is explained in my book Clothing Alteration Secrets Revealed.

 Fold the trousers at the ORIGINAL HEM and stitch around the bottom 1cm (½”) up from the original length.  This means that the frayed section is encased in the stitching.  Turn the trousers the right way, and under stitch around the base, joining the seam to the hem allowance.  This ensures that the hem allowance and the seam will lay flat.  Overlock the edge, or sew ribbon around the raw edge and stitch.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

The types of hems I am talking about are the full skirt gown.  Gowns like this are generally worn out for a special function, or a bridesmaid gown or wedding dress.  The skirt is full, and this means that at certain sections the skirt will fall on the bias.  The fabric drops at this section which causes the skirt to be uneven.  Shops that sell gowns have them hanging on the rack ready for the customer to come and view.  The longer a gown hangs, the more the gown will drop. 

 The other extremely important point is that when a gown is manufactured, the hem is not always completed accurately.  Added to this is the fact that we are all different body shapes, so that means when the gown is on the body, it may dip in the front or dip in the back because of a large bust or round bottom.  The most common problem I found was that the back was usually higher than the front!

 So imagine what happens, when a person brings in a gown and says, “Take it up 10 cm (4”)” and doesn’t try it on. I have had people bring me gowns that are shorter in the back than the front, and are looking for solutions.  If this ever happens to you and you then you can insert a panel across the bottom, but make it look like it was meant to be by having one side longer than the other as if it is a triangle.  This is just another good reason for saving off cuts from alterations.

Another tip when pinning a gown is to make sure that the straps are correct, BEFORE you pin the bottom.  Even if they do not need to be altered, check to make sure they are sitting correctly on the person.  It is very frustrating when you have spent time pinning the bottom – all the way around the gown, only to have the person give a tug here and a tug there AFTER you have done all that.

Generally I will say something like, “Before I pin the hem, I need to be sure you are comfortable with the top section.  Because if that changes then the hem will change.”

Pin the front of the gown first; getting the length the person wants.  Make sure they are standing with their spine straight.  A person’s first reaction is to bend down and look at what you are doing!  Then they look up and it’s too short!  Work with the person wearing the gown.  They have paid a lot of money for that gown, and having the hem straight it important.

 Have you ever noticed at the Oscars how the hems are all over the place!  Seriously, the ladies gowns are very seldom straight, and men’s trouser hems are generally way too long!  I watched a show on Oprah one day where they did a transformation of these men.  The transformation was amazing, but the only thing that I felt let it all down was the fact that the trousers had not been hemmed to the persons correct length.  They were so long; they bunched up around their knee and thigh area.  But I am digressing…

Once you have the length at the front, measure from the floor to the new fold.  Whatever this measurement is move around the gown folding the hem up the same amount. Double check the side seams because they may have pulled up slightly with the stitching.

 If you have a hem chalk marker, you could have the person stand on a stool.  Place a pin at the new fold, and drop the hem.  Then set the chalk marker at this new length and puff chalk around the new hem line.  This is a major time saver, and saves your back. 

 Sewing your hem

 1. Most domestic sewing machines have a rolled hem foot.  They can be an excellent method for sewing a small rolled hem on a gown, but they are not without their frustrating points.  When you hit the bias of a gown the fabric is harder to feed through.  And when you come to side seams, the thickness can be a problem.  Try sewing a row of stitching around the bottom of the hem just in from the cut line.  This may help you a little to stabilize the fabric.

 2. Use your normal sewing foot and stitch around the bottom of the gown, then fold this over and stitch around again.  The first row of stitching makes it easier to fold and gives you a nice tiny hem.

 3. Instead of sewing around the bottom just up from the cut line, fold the fabric over .5 cm (1/4”) and stitch in place.  Once you have stitched all the way around the garment, fold this section over and stitch around again.  This also gives a tiny hem.

 4. Convert your overlocker to a three thread machine.  Take the needle out of the left hand position and only have one needle in the right (next to the machine).  Set the overlock width to as wide as possible, and overlock the edge of the garment.  When you are finished, use your normal sewing machine to fold the overlocking over and stitch a small hem.

 5.  If you want to create a flounce on the bottom of the gown, switch to zigzag with a medium width stitch and lay some fishing line underneath the gown.  Zigzag as you go and make sure you catch the fishing line as you stitch.

 6. If you own an overlocker, and the gown is a chiffon or similar soft fabric, you could put a rolled hem on using your overlocker.  Switch to the rolled hem foot, or if it has an adjustment only, make the adjustment.  I find that turning the blade down so it is not cutting the fabric gives a nicer finish.  Also consider putting an embroidery thread in the middle.  This gives a really great finish.  For some fabrics, I will go around once, and then go around a second time over the top of the first.  It makes the rolled hem thicker and looks great.

 Tip – Instead of hanging a gown in the wardrobe on a hanger, either lay in flat in a draw, or place it inside a clothes bag which you can hang in the wardrobe, but have the bag folded in half and attached back on the hanger, so that there is no weight pulling the skirt down.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie