Archive for the ‘Elastic’ Category
I am in my 50′s so I have been around long enough to see the cycle of fashion. Hipster was in when I was a young girl, and then high waisted came in at my most informative years. Because I had a bit of excess weight on at that time, I preferred the high waisted, and have always kept my trousers and skirts at the waist. I could not be converted to the low hipster style garment. So when I find a pair of stretch pants that I like, which are low waisted, I buy them, take the old band off and replaced it with a wider band that is 5 cm (2″) wider. Plus I did a cross over at the front which looks nice.
Cut a piece of stretch fabric that is your waist measurement – less 5 cm (2″) for firmness – plus 30 cm (12″) for crossover. The cross over begins just past the side seam. This means you will have a “V” in the front and the bands at the front should overlap a good 15cm (6″).
You can cut the old band off, or unpick. By unpicking you keep a little of the fabric from the body. Measure a pair of stretch trousers you have that are comfortable. Measure the rise – crotch to top at centre front. Write this amount down and measure the crotch to the top at the centre back. Write this measurement down. If you want it to be exact at the sides, measure from the hem up to the top of the pair you like and write this measurement down. Or you can just taper the front to the back.
Now measure the new trousers in the same locations – centre front, centre back and sides from the hem. Calculate the difference and allow for seam allowance. Find yourself a good stretch fabric, making sure to have the stretch going around the body.
You may find you need the front to be higher than the back, or the other way around. The sides will be another measurement. You can make a template using paper, Vilene or calico. Once you have the band the right measurement at the front, sides and back, plus the extra for the front crossover, fold your stretch fabric in half with the fold at the top. Cut your piece out, allowing for seams. Pin into place with the fold at the top. Begin at the centre back. Pin around to the sides and lay the front crossover on top of each other. Sew the new band on and overlock excess.
If you find the fabric is not firm enough, you could attach some elastic around the top of the trousers before you put the band on. Or you could sew some elastic around the fold on the inside of the new band.
To save having to do this, I always use good firm elastic, and take the time to make sure I have the measurements right the first time.
Tip for the month – Have you got a cardigan or top that is buttoned down the front, and it gaps around the bust area? I had a blouse in my wardrobe, great style and beautiful fabric in a burgundy colour. But it never got worn because it gaped in the front. You know how a painter’s house is never painted? Same goes in my house. Anyway, you will be pleased to know that I have now stitched it down with the buttons still there, so it looks like it is buttoned up, and because it was a little square looking, I put two darts under the bust down to the hem. Now it looks great and I don’t have to worry about the gaping.
Method – Pin the front down, so that the edges are flush. Use a thread colour that is the same as the garment or the thread that is used. Stitch down the edge trying to stitch over the top of the existing stitch line. If the buttons are big, you may have to take them off and put them back on after you have stitched it down. You only need to do the one row of stitching down the edge. Make sure you have the top and bottom even before you sew. If you are stitching a knit, try using your buttonhole foot. Mine has a ridge underneath, and it helps to stop the knit from slipping.
Sewing on buttons – Instead of doing it by hand, use your sewing machine. Again I use my buttonhole foot which holds the button in place. Remember the zigzag is on the width of the holes and the straight stitch is on zero (0). If you want it really neat, you can thread the thread to the back and knot off.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
Stretch pants can grow as they get older. I have some old favorites that I love, which I repair and patch. One of my old favorites needs to be taken in at the waist, but rather than take bands off etc., I attached some elastic at the back of the band – centre back. Elastic should be about 3 cm (2 ¼”) wide and cut into a 10cm (4″) stripe. Place a dot in the centre of the elastic. This will be the centre back seam position. You will be stretching 5 cm (2″) into 7.5cm (3″). Place a dot at 7.5 cm (3″) from the centre back seam and secure the elastic. Do the same on the opposite side. Then sew across the top, stretching as you go, and then stitch the bottom. This takes the stretchy pants in by 5 cm (2″).
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
If you have a sleeve that is too long, a quick option is to sew elastic onto the inside arm seam or shirring elastic upwards on the sleeve. This could be at the end of the sleeve, below or above the elbow.
I always find it easier to open seams so that the shirring begins at the edge of the fabric, rather than having a join that can be seen. It also means that when the inside arm seam is stitched closed it LOCKS the shirring into place.
Another option is to cut 15 cm (6″) off the bottom, unpick the hem allowance and the side seams, sew shirring elastic from the hem up the cut piece. Do this all the way around, then attach back onto the sleeve. The shirring will gather the fabric which will shorten the sleeve.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
Another method to shorten a top is to sew shirring elastic around the waist. To ensure that the elastic does not pull away, unpick the side seams so the sewing abegins t the edge of the fabric. The shirring elastic is wound on to your bobbin by hand. Make sure to wind it on firm rather than having it too loose, but not tight. The wider the stitch length, the more it will gather. Mark or place pins where to stitch so that you sew in a straight line. Never use ball point pens or pencils that cannot be washed out. Sew the second row beside the first, making sure to keep the edge of the sewing machine foot against the first row of stitching. Repeat until all the rows are completed. I wouldn’t do less than six for effect.
The shirring could be around the hip area, or if the fabric is very soft, sew the shirring around the hip area, and then push it up to the waist, allowing the fabric to flop over the shirring. I would only suggest people who are slim use this option, because it can add bulk to your body shape.
Once all the rows are sewn, stitch across the ends on the side seam BEFORE you join the front and back together. This will ensure the ends do not come out. Overlock or bind the side seams once the seams are joined.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
If you have a tee shirt or top that is too long and need a quick fix, try sewing some elastic on to the side seams. I prefer to use elastic that is .6 cm (1/4″) wide, because if the elastic is too wide it will curl.
No need to unpick the hem. Begin by catching the elastic to the side seam about 8 cm (4″) below the armhole. Use a zig zag stitch the width of the elastic, but have it so the stitch is wide apart. Attach the elastic then give it a slight pull as you sew. The more you pull the tighter the gather. Attach the elastic down to the top of the hem. Stop and lock off, then cut the elastic. Repeat on the opposite side. This pulls the long tee shirt or top up and gives a nice feature as well.
An added benefit for a lot of people will be the impression you have a waist. I am thick around the middle, but this feature makes me look like I have a waist.
Other garments you can do this will are the bottom of trousers attaching on either side at the bottom and on the sleeves of tops.
Another option is to stitch elastic on from the hem UP towards the top. A tee shirt would be a good one for this. Measure the width from side seam to side seam, then divide the amount evenly across from side to side. You can have the elastic close together or a little apart. The affect will change depending on your preference. Turn the garment inside out and rule across from side to side the point where you will stop. This way you will have them all even. Stitch in a thread colour close to the colour of the garment. I would straight stitch the elastic on in this instance, rather than zig zag, and I would choose elastic that is as thin as possible.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
Comfort is important but even some trousers that are elasticated can be too big in the waist or they may hang down at the crotch, or a combination of both. To test and see which is the problem, fold the elastic band over once and see what happens to the crotch. If it has not raised it enough, fold over again. It may be that you only want to fold the waist over one and a half times. Experiment until you get it right. In my case, I usually raise the front more than the back, because my bottom is well rounded!!!! You may have the same issue. Or your bottom may be skinnier. When you have it folded at the correct amount, pin the band.
If the elastic is too big, take hold of a section (doesn’t matter where) and pinch in the amount you want it to be. Use a safety pin instead of a pin else it may stick into you.
If the sides are still a little baggy, pin down the sides a little and see how it looks in a mirror.
Take the trousers off.
Measure the amount you have pinched from the pin to the fold and double this amount, then write it down on a piece of paper.
Measure the amount you have pinned down the sides and write this down on a piece of paper as well.
Now place a pin in the fold of the fabric at the very top, all the way around. Now take your pins out and measure down from the top at the centre front to the pin and write this measurement down on a piece of paper, putting “centre front = and the amount down from the original top. Do the same on the sides and the back.
If there is a band, unpick the band, cut the amount out from the body, allowing for seam allowance, then attach the band back on.
If there is no band, measure down from at the centre front and put a chalk mark for the new position, then MARK UP towards the top for the elastic hem allowance. This should be the same as on the garment.
Cut on the top chalk mark. You may have to unpick the existing band if you are only going down one band width. Some manufacturers use the chain safety stitch, which looks a little different from the standard straight stitch. It will be thicker on the underside. Clip one stitch and see if it unravells. It will save you a lot of time.
Over lock the cut edge and sew the elastic back on. It will sit better if you sew the edge of the elastic to the edge of the hem allowance edge first, then fold and stitch down. With some fabrics I will sew the top of the elastic to one side as well as the bottom, then fold and stitch down. Any questions email me.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
Posted in Elastic, Skirts, Trousers | 
Tags: Baggy back leg on trousers, trousers too big | 
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When the elastic goes in your trousers or skirt, rather than pulling the old elastic out first, then threading the new, join the new elastic to the end of the old elastic, and when pulling the old elastic out, the new elastic will be threaded through. Quick and easy.
If you always wear something over the waist line, and the elastic being replaced is stitched in a thousand times (you know what I mean), then consider cutting the band off, and making a new band which can have the new elastic threaded through. If you have the time to sit and unpick that’s great, but if running a business, the customer is going to be charged for all the time it takes to unpick. I give my customers the choice of cutting off, or they can unpick it for me. I will even give them a quick unpick and send them on their way. They always return with the job done, then all I have to do is put it all back together with the new elastic.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
A lot of the gym trousers these days don’t have elastic in the waist. The manufactures are making a band out of the lycra or the stretch fabric and attaching this to the trouser. As the person looses weight or the trousers are washed a few times, the trousers become looser. An easy way to keep the trousers up is to thread some elastic through the band. Rather than unpick the band, use your quick unpick and undo one or two stitches in the band. Just enough to get your bodkin or large safety pin through with the elastic attached. Once you have threaded the elastic through, hand stitch up the seam.
Another quick and easy method would be to sew some elastic on the inside of the band at the centre back. You probably only need 15cm (6”) of elastic stretched out to about 20cm (8”).
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
Another one of my pet hates is unpicking stitching that is sewn in a very small stitch. It is almost impossible to unpick. Whenever I have someone bring me a pair of trousers or skirt that needs the elastic replaced, I look at the stitching before I give a quote. Some have the chain stitch which is so simple and easy to unpick – takes a few seconds (well maybe a minute). But for small stitching I give two quotes. Because seriously, there is not just one row of stitching, we are talking about 3 or 4 rows.
The first quote is to unpick the stitching. That quote is usually high. I also give them the option of taking it away and unpicking it themselves.
The second quote is to cut the top section off completely, and put a new band on with the elastic encased. Takes far less time and looks great. The only thing you need to do is try to match the fabric.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie
Shirring elastic looks great in tops and dresses. But if the elastic breaks or pulls away from the seam, the garment is usually discarded.
Shirring elastic is wound onto the bobbin. It should be wound on so that it is firm on the bobbin. Shirring comes in a range of colours but the standard are black and white.
Put the stitch length at the longest length, which are usually around 5 or 6, because the longer the stitch the tighter the gather.
Lock back and forward at the beginning so that the elastic will not move. You will need to sew a row and then check to see if the tension is the same as on the garment.
Unpick the row that has pulled away. Once you have the tension right, you can sew the row you unpicked on the garment.
Happy sewing
Judith aka genie