Hints & Tips

Archive for the ‘Jeans’ Category

Stretch jeans are great, but sometimes the band can keep stretching when worn.  Pockets can also poke out.  A client asked if there was anything I could do to stop the jeans from falling down.  they could have been taken in at the centre back (there are a number of ways to do this) but the client did not want to go to that expense, so the next option was to sew cotton tape around the top of the band.  I used a thin tape so it was not too uncomfortable.  This is the process:-

1. Cut enough tape to go around the band
2. Unpick the top of the belt loops, and pin down out of the way
3. Fold tape in half and place centre fold at the centre back
4. Pin around to the front – stop at the belt loop closest to the zip
5. Pin the tape from the centre back around to the opposite side stopping at the belt loop closest to the zip
6. Stitch cotton tape onto top of band, trying to sew into the original stitch line on the top of the band (use a thread colour the same as existing thread)
7. Stitch the pockets down either all the way or just at the top section about 5 cm (2 in)
8. Zig zag belt loops back on

By stopping the tape at the belt loops by the zip, it still allowed a little bit of stretch on the jeans.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

The Jean Genie is my invention for shortening jeans using a domestic sewing machine.  It ensures the correct length is cut on the jeans eliminating the fear of cutting too short, explains how to get a professional looking stitch using my TOPSIDE sewing technique and assists in sewing over the thick seams usually associated with denim or moleskin.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

One of my subscribers asked about shortening a pair of jeans with the bottom of the jeans folded out. I can’t put the link in because for some reason it throws all the typing out, but it is at a website called ezibuy.com.au and you will need to go to the jeans section for women.   I do not have a pair of these jeans to look at, but I have altered some before that had this feature, so I am assuming it is the same.

She wanted to shorten the jeans, but still leave the folded section on the jeans.

This is where the use of reference points comes into play in a big way.  You all know that I am a big fan of reference points.  It is how I can give my clients a guarantee that the garment will be altered to the exact measurements we both agree to.

Altering technique

Pin the jeans to the new length by folding the excess under.  What you are interested here is the new finished length, so don’t worry about the folded section.  Just fold the excess up and under until you have the right length.  Pin the excess into place.

When the jeans are off the person, measure from the top of the band to the new length and write this measurement down on a piece of paper.  This is your finished outside leg measurement.

Measure the amount you have folded under and write this amount down on the piece of paper. (a)

Take the pins out so that the jeans are now down to the original length.

Place a pin on the original finished length.

Lower or unpick the folded section on the jeans.

Measure the amount the folded section is and write this down on a piece of paper. (b)

Below this amount write + HEM ALLOWANCE (c)

So to recap we have

(a)   The amount the jeans are being shortened by

(b)   The amount that is folded up (it is folded twice so make sure you have to total amount)

(c)    Hem allowance which for jeans is 1.5 cm + 1.5 cm (5/8″ + 5/8″)

Measure from the original length (you have a pin in it) up (a), then come down from this amount for (b), then come down again from there towards the hem for (c)

You will have three chalk marks for (c).  Cut on the bottom line.

Do your normal jean hem, and then fold it up twice as per the original way it was.

To ensure the amount stays folded, you should stitch in the ditch on the inside and outside leg seams.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

You need to cut a piece of fabric of similar weight and a stretch behind the tear but instead of zig zag, try sewing back and forward into the grain of the fabric.  If you really look at it you will see lines (usually) on an angle.  This is the weave of the fabric.  If you find a thread colour similar to the colour of the jeans, then you secure the piece of fabric behind and stitch back and forward to cover the tear.  If the tear is close to the seam, unpick the seam.  Do not try and repair over a seam.  It doesn’t work.  Take the extra time to have easy access to the tear.  You will be happier with the finish repair.  Also.  I use a product called vizafex.  It is a two sides sticky used in appliqué.  I use that to secure the fabric behind.  One side peels off and you iron that on to one side, then you peel off the other piece of paper and iron it to the garment.  If you would like to see a photo of what I mean, email me

Judith aka genie

You can take the band off and lower however explain to the customer that the pockets can not be moved, which means you can only come down so far.  The band could be stitched on with a chain stitch in which case it would be easy to unpick, or you may have to unpick each stitch.  A quick way to do this is to slice using a razor blade or Stanley knife blade.  Be careful, but this technique is excellent for unpicking jean stitching quickly.  The belt loops are a little harder to unpick, but I carefully slice the zigzag on the back and then it should undo quickly.

 The problem with lowering at the waist is that the customer must understand that the band is going to get tighter because it is lower on the hip.  That means you may have to put an extension in the band.  If the jeans are a bit loose you dont have to but usually this is not the case.  Measure the width 1″ down, and I would be measuring the client as well.  Or ask her to push the jeans down to the position she wants the band, which means it will look baggy in the crotch.  That way you can see if the band is too tight at the position she wants it.  The extension can go in the back (a piece of denim same colour) or you can put some imitation suede or leather.  Something that looks ok.

 The other thing is to put the extension on the end of the band that goes UNDER the buttonhole.  But there is usually a jean button which means taking that off but that means the extension is longer.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Topstitching can stop you from taking in the sides of a garment.  But there will be times when you have to unpick the topstitching, take in the sides and re topstitch.  If the garment is jeans, don’t despair about getting the cotton colour right.  A lot of domestic sewing machines do not like the thick denim cotton.  If your sewing machine will not sew the thick cotton use two cottons to achieve the same look.  You may have to use two slightly different colours to get the same colour as the jeans cotton.  Don’t wind two cottons onto your bobbin.  Sew topside with the two cottons running through the top of your machine.

When you turn the garment inside out, have a look to see if the topstitching is in a chain stitch or unraveller as I call it.  This can save you a lot of time and trouble unpicking.  If you ever find that unpicking the seam is hard, have a good look at the seam, because a chain stitch can be hard to unpick.  It unravels from the left to the right as you look at the stitch.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Jeans don’t have darts or pleats to release, but generally a manufacturer will sew stabilizing tape around the top of the jeans.  They also can sew stabilizing tape around the top of the band in between the fabric.  This means there is absolutely no stretch at all in the band.  When you take the band off you and any tape, you will notice that the fabric will be quite stretchy.  Also take the tape off from the top of the band if there is any and you can then put your band back on and you will have picked up maybe 5cm (2in).

 If the jeans have stretched substantially at the waist, you could attach an extension.  I would suggest you put this in the centre back because most jeans have a stud and button hole.  The best place is under the leather label.  No one would see the extension.

 Happy sewing

 Judith aka genie

There are a number of ways to put the original hem back on jeans.  It comes down to the thickness of the jean fabric.  One technique I use encases the off cut so that it looks almost perfect.  For this method you need to unpick the stitching and re stitch afterwards. 

Sometimes you come across a pair of jeans with a very unusual cotton colour.  If you are not able to match the colour, then you may want to use the second technique which is reattaching the hem, and then cutting off the excess and over locking around the edge.  I would always top stitch to ensure the fabric does not fall down, and I would stitch in a colour almost identical to the jean fabric.

If the jeans are not going up too much, you may get away with turning the jeans inside out, and folding the fabric over just above the stitch line.  If you use this option, mark it first, and I usually use the zipper foot, so I get very close to the stitching.

In all cases you must line up the inside and outside leg seams.

TIP:  To get a thick professional looking hem, sew topside using two threads on the machine.  Instructions for this technique are in my book.

 Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

If you have to unpick jean hems, you might like to try using a Stanley Knife blade.  They are very sharp.  Practice on old fabric first.  Slide the blade into the stitching and cut a few stitches.  Then slide the blade along the stitching towards you.  I lean on a counter and place a small section of the hem in between myself and the counter so it is secured.  Then with my left hand I hold the hem away from me, and my right hand is slicing the hem.  There is an illustration of how I do this in my book – Genie Clothing Alteration Secrets Revealed.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

There are a number of ways to put the original finished hem back onto jeans, and you can do it using your domestic sewing machine.  My book Clothing Alteration Secrets Revealed covers one of the techniques, but there are other methods, depending on what the existing hem looks like.  For more information on my technique go to www.geniecentre.com

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie