Hints & Tips

Archive for the ‘Sewing Notions’ Category

Most of the clothing alterations I do, I do on my domestic sewing machine.  I believe that most people who would be subscribing to this newsletter will also use domestic sewing machines and domestic over lockers (sergers).

In fact in all six shops that I have operated, we only used domestic sewing machines.  In one of those shops we were doing over $6,000 per week in work.  So you can imagine the machines got a hammering, but they held up to the workload.  You don’t have to have industrial machines to be good at clothing alterations.

However, what is important is that you have the right needles for the job.  If the machine is not stitching properly it will more than likely be one of two things

1. The needle is blunt.
2. Using the wrong needle for the fabric being sewn

I use a brand called Schmetz and they have a large variety of needles to choose from, however I only ever used the following.  I have listed them, because I believe you should get yourself these needles, and always have them on hand.  There are five needles in a packet. Look after your needles, by returned them to the packet after you use them.  I use a black permanent marker and put a dot on the plastic above the needle I have used, so I am always reusing the same needle.  When that gets blunt or breaks then I move on to the next needle.

For regular use I have a pin cushion next to my machine, and I put those needles in the pin cushion for easy access.

• Size 60/8 Microtex – delicate fabrics such as chiffons
• Size 70/10 Universal – light weight fabrics
• Size 75/11 Stretch – As the name implies it’s for sewing stretch fabrics
• Size 80/12 Universal – Medium weight fabric such as cotton, linen
• Size 90/14 Denim – Heavy fabrics such as denim
• Size 100/14 Leather – Specifically for leather

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

We all get used to using different tools when sewing, however when unpicking something I prefer to use the Quick Unpick.  The brand I use is called “Clover” and the quick unpick is a brown colour.  It is very sharp.  When I open a new one I write the date on the handle using a Permanent Marker pen.  This way I know which one is the sharpest one because it has the latest date on it.  Don’t throw the ones that are not so sharp away.  They are still good, but I only use them when I am unpicking a few stitches.   The new sharp one is for when I have a lot of unpicking to do.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

I used to have all different sized safety pins in my sewing drawer for threading elastic.  I still use a large safety pin sometimes for very wide elastic, however I use a Bodkin to thread most small to medium elastics.  They are brilliant to use because they are long and thin with a very large eye at one end to thread the elastic and front end has a rounded top so that it does not catch on anything.  It is about the width of a pen refill, so it can go into any small opening.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

The plastic bikini clasps tend to break when they are in the washing machine.  Instead of putting them into the machine loose with all your other clothes, buy or make yourself a bra bag/laundry bag and put the bikini top into the bag to protect it.

If you are going to make your own, buy some of the single fabric with small holes in it.  Cut out a square x 2 and join together at the bottom and sides.  Sew a zip in the top.  You can use this for all your delicates, and especially bras.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

If the stitches are not sewing correctly, check that the thread on the bobbin is not loose.  When I wind the thread onto the bobbin I place my index and thumb over the thread to hold it firm, so that when it winds onto the bobbin it is not loose.  it must be firm.  If the thread is loose, your stitching will be loose and may develop loops underneath or on top.

The practice of winding on by hand in my opinion is not correct.  I believe it would be difficult to get an even tension on the bobbin this way.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

For those of us with eye sight challenges, here are a few tips for threading your needles:-

1.  Instead of cutting the thread straight across (blunt) cut it on an angle.  The thread slips into the eye of the needle easier.

2.  Use a pair of tweezers to thread your sewing machine needle.  Once you get into the habit you will never use your fingers again.  Great for people with false (acrylic or gel) nails.

3.  Use the Self Threading needles.  Can be purchased at most sewing shops.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Buy yourself a good quality pair of scissors, because they will last you a lifetime if you look after them.  I get my scissors sharpened about every three months at a knife sharpening place.  They guarantee that the scissors are sharpened using a diamond sharpening disc.  I have found that if my scissors are sharpened with a standard sharpening tool, they end up with a burr on them.  But when they are done with the diamond disc, they come back sharp and no burrs.  Let everyone know that your scissors are ‘OUT OF BOUNDS’ to everyone but you.  Have a pair of cheaper paper cutting scissors in a kitchen door for everyone else to use.  Everyone knows if they touch my scissors they are in big trouble.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

If you shorten track suit pants often, and do not have an over locker you can use twin needle.  I would recommend the widest one possible, because I think it gives a better finish.

Personally I prefer to over lock the edge of the new hem, and sew two rows of stitching, the first through the overlocking and the second in the exact same position all the way around next to the first row of stitching.

If you are operating a clothing alteration business, you can buy yourself a little Coverstitch machine.  They are around AUD$600 and they are wonderful.  They give the professional cover stitch finish like you see on new clothes. It gives a twin stitch on the outer and over locked on the inside.  There is also a very easy way to unpick these seams.  I have provided illustrations and information in my book Genie Clothing Alteration Secrets Revealed.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Hand sewing needles can become coated with residue from stitching through fabric.  A way to clean the needle quickly is to run the tip of the needle through your hair.  The oil in your hair will help clean the needle.  You have to do this a few times.  Make sure you don’t stick the needle tip into your head.

This does not work on a needle that has been dropped and the tip is pushed in.

Happy sewing

Judith aka Genie

Clothing Alterations can be performed easier if you have the right tools. Ever hear of a carpenter without a hammer? Its the same with clothing alterations. There are a variety of items that I believe are a must for anyone doing clothing alterations.  This is a list of the top 8 Haberdashery and dressmaking supplies you’ll need to get the most out of your clothing alterations:

#1) A good quality quick unpick

#2) Sharp nippers

#3) A Tape measure (I prefer the 1/8th of an inch increment tape measure)

#4) Tailors pencils – preferably 3 colors, blue pink and white

#5) Tailors chalk (3 or 4 colors like the tailors pencils)

#6) Good quality scissors

#7) Pins at the ready (1.5 cm quilting pins are the best)

#8) Variety of sewing needles

Having these 8 pieces of haberdashery and dressmaking supplies will make 80% of your clothing alterations far easier… there is nothing worse than needing a good quality quick unpick and not having anything at hand except for your husbands stanley knife or a knife you’ve grabbed from the kitchen… not a good thing for your clothes!

Happy Sewing,

Judith aka Genie