Hints & Tips

Archive for the ‘Shirts’ Category

Glass case secured to pocket

Does your glass case fall out of your shirt pocket?  Try this easy method of securing glass case and glasses to the pocket.  Attach a piece of velco (hard) side to the pocket as close to the centre as possible – see 1. Attach velcro to top of pocket

Tip – Most soft glass cases come with velcro stuck to case.  Usually the soft section is on the flap and the hard on the case.  If the flap is soft, then use hard on the pocket and viz versa.

Stitch a piece of soft velcro underneath the hard on the top of the pocket.  This velcro will attach to the soft on the body of the case – see 2. Attach velcro to back of fiirst piece

In the example I had the velcro about .5 cm (1/4 in) above the edge of the pocket.  This was because of the position of the velcro on the glass case.

This method stops the glass case from falling out of the pocket and gives easy access to glasses by lifting flap, and accessing glasses whilst the case is still secured to the pocket.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

1. Attach velcro to top of pocket

2. Attach velcro to back of first piece

A placket is an opening in a shirt at the end of the sleeve or the opening in a skirt or trousers.  Personally when I am typing away explaining clothing alterations, I occassionally write the wrong placket.  I have written placard which is of course a sign.

A placket can be unpicked and replaced when a shirt sleeve is shortened, or if the amount is not significant the cuff can be unpicked, the amount cut off the placket and the cuff replaced.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Step 1 – When shortening the sleeves, always have a proper fitting.  Buttons should be done up at the front, and the cuffs should be buttoned up as well on the wrist.

Step 2 – If the cuff width is too wide, pin the cuff in so it is fitting loosely on the wrist.  This means undoing the buttons and pinning to the new position.  Do not pin the cuff so it is too tight.  The person needs to be able to raise their arm and have the cuff move around slightly.  If it is pinned too tight, the person will feel restricted in movement. Pin cuffs together so that the pin is through the top and bottom section of the cuff.  When happy with the new width of the cuff, place a pin BESIDE the cuff on the edge to show the position it needs to be moved to.  This is only so that when the fitting is completed the person can get out of the cuff.

Note – Usually when shortening sleeves, the fabric is folded under, but in the case of a shirt, I prefer to have the cuff in the correct position on the wrist and pin the excess fabric ABOVE the cuff.  There is a placket, so I usually try and go above that as well, however sometimes this is not possible.

Step 3 – Grab hold of the excess fabric above the placket.

Step 4 – Measure the amount folded between your fingers. Place a pin sideways, so that you are taking away the excess on the sleeve. For example the amount folded 3.5 cm (1 3/8 in).  The pin is 3.5 cm (1 3/8 in) from the fold.  This means the sleeve is being shortened a total of 7 cm (2 ¾ in) because the fabric is folded.

Step 5 – Move around the sleeve, pinning the same amount all the way around the sleeve.  I like to pin fairly close together, so there should be around 4 pins placed around the sleeve all with the same amount of 3.5 cm (1 3/8 in).

Step 7 – Check to see that the inside pin does not raise the sleeve too high.  One mistake is that the amount pinned at the front of the sleeve is correct, but when you pin the inside arm seam, it pulls the sleeve up too much.  If it is too high, lower the other pins.  There should be a little flounce in the sleeve so that when the person raises their arm, the sleeve will rise up towards the elbow. Without flounce the sleeve will pull and be raised too high.  My definition of a little flounce is about 3.5 cm (1 ½ in) or a little more of excess fabric puffing above the cuff.

Step 8 – Have the person raise his arm so that the cuff is sitting just behind the knuckle. When the arm is down the cuff should sit on the end of the wrist, covering the knuckle.

Note – I have clients who work in their shirts, so they prefer their sleeves to be a little higher than a person who does not work in their shirt.

Step 9- When the arm is at a right angle in front of the body the cuff is sitting on the wrist.

Step 10 – Write down the amount that you have folded at the sleeve.  If you are measuring from the edge to the pin, then you need to double this amount because the fabric is folded.  For example the measurement is 3.5 cm (1 3/8in) from the pin to the fold.  Write down 7 cm (2 ¾ in).

There are a number of options when shortening sleeves with a cuff.

1. Sleeves can be shortened from the section just above the cuff which means the cuff must be unpicked, the amount the shirt is being shortened will be taken from the end of the shirt sleeve, and the cuff is put back on.  A placket can be about 5 cm (2 in) long and a person would still be able to put their hand into their sleeve without any problem.
2. If the amount being shortened is substantial then the placket needs to be unpicked and moved up, cutting off the excess at the end of the sleeve.  This is a rather long process and can be costly if you have a professional do the job.
3. If you do not want to move the placket, you can shorten from the top of the sleeve called the sleeve cap.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

For this exercise we will assume the sleeve needs to be shortened 4 cm (1 ½ in) which is an amount that allows for cutting part of the placket off.

Unpick the right cuff and safety pin to the right sleeve.  Unpick the left cuff and safety pin to the left sleeve.  Always unpick from the back rather than the front of the cuff.  If you make a mistake and nick the cuff, it can always be repaired at the back of the cuff.

There is a small button and button hole half way up the placket.  Try to hide the buttonhole when shortening or at least have some room below the buttonhole.  It does not look good having half a buttonhole showing.  Or cut through the buttonhole as per the illustration, so that the buttonhole will be hidden inside the cuff when reattached.  To ensure the amount taken off is accurate, measure all the way around the bottom of the sleeve.  The tape measure should have the amount the sleeve is going up placed over the top of the original stitching, and your chalk mark is at the tip of the tape measure.  Allow for hem allowance which is usually 1 cm (3/8 in), by marking down from the top mark.  Cut on the bottom mark.

Pin the cuff  back on beginning at the side closest to the inside arm seam.  The distance between the placket and the inside arm seam is narrower than the distance on the other side from the placket to the inside arm.  The pleats are in the latter side.

Place the pins so each pin can be pulled out as sewn.

Place one pin on the end and another at the inside arm seam.  Now move around to the opposite side which has more distance from the placket to the side seam (where the pleats were) and  pin the cuff to the edge.  Make sure both sides are lined up.

At this stage only the two ends (one up to the side seam) by the placket are pinned, and nothing is pinned in the middle.  The reason this is a good way of pinning the cuffs is that the pleats are always on the side furthest from the inside arm seam.  By pinning the opposite side, then moving around to the pleat side, means you can now work out how much to pleat.

Usually there are two pleats, but  a shirt can have three or even four.  Your pleats should have no more than 3 cm (1 ¼ in) in each pleat.  To hold the pleat in place, use a pin and pin down the pleat with the pin head away from the cuff.  Stitch into the original stitch line on the cuff.

Pin the opposite sleeve, and top stitch into the original stitch mark.

Shirt sleeve has been shortened.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

This article is on how to unpick the placket on a shirt sleeve, cut off the excess and reattach the placket.  Just to reiterate there are two options for shortening the sleeves on a shirt with cuffs.

Sleeves can be shortened from the section just above the cuff which means the cuff must be unpicked, the amount the shirt is being shortened will be taken from the end of the shirt sleeve, and the cuff is put back on.  This only works when the amount is around half of the length of the placket and if the person does not mind the placket being shorter.  (covered last month)

1. If the amount being shortened is substantial then the placket needs to be unpicked and moved up, cutting off the excess at the end of the sleeve.  This is a rather long process and can be costly if you have a professional do the job.  (covered this month)
2. If you do not want to move the placket, you can shorten from the top of the sleeve called the sleeve head or sleeve cap.  (covered next month)

Option 2 – Sleeve shortened more than 7 cm (2 ¾ in) – Reattaching placket

Unpick the cuff and the placket.  Measure the length of the split cut up the sleeve that the placket is attached to.  Write down this measurement.  Mark the amount that the sleeve is being shortened beginning from the original stitch line.  Allow for seam allowance – 1cm (3/8 in).  Cut off the excess fabric from the bottom of the sleeve.  The opening needs to be extended.  Make the opening the amount that you wrote down.  Do not cut too high.

Re attaching placket

There are two pieces for the placket.  The wider section has the buttonhole and it is always attached to the side that is farthest from the inside arm sleeve seam.  The thinnest section is attached on the side closest to the inside arm seam.

Clip out from the top creating a “V” making the clip 7 mm (1/4 in) either side. Look at the top of the original opening to see how it was clipped before.  Make sure to only clip the amount needed.  Too much and the cut will be seen.  Attach the smallest side first.  The end of the strip should be 1 cm (3/8in) past the clipped “V”.

Fold in half over the split and stitch down or attach on the wrong side with right side of strip sewn to wrong side of split, and then fold over to right side and top stitch.  The 1 cm (3/8 in) at the end if not stitched down.

Join the “V” to the top of the small strip that is not sewn, joining so they are facing the right side of the fabric.  This will be covered with the second wide section.  The underside should be clean with no seams showing.  Attach the wide section right side to the opposite side.  It can either be folded in half and stitched into place, or sew one side first up to the “V”, then fold back over to the right side and topstitch.  Do not sew the top section above the “V” as this will be stitched down later.  Clip the curve at the top so that it sits flat.  Press the placket into place.

Fold inner placket edge over raw edges and topstitch close to the edge of the fold.  Fold the placket over the opening and pin or baste in place. Stitch a square shape above the sleeve opening. Stitch two diagonal rows of stitching through center of square.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

There is a very quick way to mark and cut the hem.  Most shirts have tails.  Mark the one front side panel curving up at the sides.  I prefer to have a chalk mark that is about 1 cm (1/2 in) long for the new length, then I mark underneath that for the hem allowance.  Try to keep the same curve line as the existing hem.  Cut from the front edge along the bottom (on the bottom chalk mark) and follow the curve up to the side seam.   Stop cutting.  the front section is now your template, so fold this across to the first half of the back.  Cut to the centre back following the front curve.   Stop at the centre back, and fold the front and half of the centre back across to second half of the shirt and the front and cut.  Your tails should be perfect either side.

Hem in the technique you want.  When creating a small hem, the hem allowance should ALWAYS be small else it will not curve properly.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

There are two options.  The first is the quick way which you have probably done before and that is to fold the shoulder over and put a pleat in it which would give you a pleat at the front and back.  You could do two or three and make it a feature.  I prefer to turn the garment inside out and stitch the fold on the under side, then come around and top stitch it down which a row of stitching as close to the edge as you can.  This gives it a pleated effect without it looking like that was what you wanted to do.

The second way is the more time consuming and that is to take the sleeve out, recut the armhole and put the sleeve back in.  Always label your sleeves with a piece of paper attached with a safety pin before you unpick.  Ie right sleeve and left sleeve labeled.  Saves you trying to work out which sleeve goes where.  Just a little time saving thing.

You do not need to deepen the armhole.  But you may find you have to put a dart in the front.  Also sew TWO rows of stitching around the new armhole in a wide stitch and ease it in slightly.  This ensures you don’t stretch the fabric.  Pin the sleeve back in. I usually put a dot at the top of the sleeves if there isn’t a notch there already so you know the exact top of the sleeve.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Taking a sweat shirt from a large to a medium or small is usually a lot of work.  If you have the time.  The sides need to come in from under the arm down to the hem.  I would also be taking in from the underarm down the arm to the end of the sleeve.

Before you shorten the length from the bottom which would include taking the band off, cutting the excess off and replacing the band, you should fold the sleeve up on the shoulder to see if it needs to be raised.  Usually a sweat shirt will have a dropped shoulder, but it might be too low for a medium or small.  If you are going to take the sleeve out and raise it do this BEFORE you shorten the length.  In fact if the sleeve is too long, you may be able to just recut the sleeve head and re attach without having to undo the bottom of the band.

If the sweat shirt is too long, you may have to shorten the length.  It’s always good to have the body in the sweat shirt and pin to the persons body, rather than guessing, although a sweat shirt is not a fitting garment, so you can get away with altering down a few sizes by just taking in as discussed above.

HINT – If you do opt for raising at the sleeve head, don’t take the side of the sleeve in until you have repinned the cut sleeve head onto the garment.  You should take in the side seam from the underarm to the hem BEFORE you pin the sleeve back on.  the reason for this is that the sleeve gets narrower the closer it gets to the end of the sleeve, so it will automatically become narrower.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

If you ever would like to put splits in a tee shirt, I would recommend using a herring bone tape which will be featured on the inside of the split.

Tee shirts are usually put together with a four thread over locker, which means no seam allowance, therefore to open out the seam and turn a section back would not look that great, plus the split will probably roll because there is nothing of substance to hold it back.

Leave some tape hanging over the hem for turn back and sew the herring bone tape on so that it is lying over the top of the right side of the fabric.  This way when you lay the tape flat there will be no bulk.  Make an upside down “V” at the top of the tape with the excess tape underneath, and then sew down the opposite side.

Turn the tape back to the wrong side and fold the excess at the hem under and sew around the outer edge of the tape.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

A false cuff can look good on short sleeves of a shirt or a false cuff on the bottom of your trousers.

I put a 1 ¼” (3 cm) hem allowance on my false cuffs.  On top of this I need another ½” (1 cm).  So lets say you are converting a long sleeve shirt into shirt sleeves.  Mark up the amount you are taking the sleeves up, lets say 12” (30 cm) then come down 1 ¾” (5cm) and mark at this point.  Mark three places in this way on the front and three places on the back.  Cut on the bottom line.  Turn the sleeve inside out and iron up the 1 ¾” (5 cm). Check to see if the sleeve will sit into the new hem allowance.  It more than likely will not, because of the tapering of the sleeve.  Open out the seam, and if it’s a French seam, undo the hem allowance ONLY and refold it opening out the seam.  Stitch down the opened section doing a top stitch.  You should have the first section ironed up at the new fold line.  Turn this hem allowance over again, and iron up another hem allowance.  MAKE SURE THAT THE RAW EDGE (CUT EDGE) IS UP AGAINST THE NEW FOLD LINE.  Stitch around this fold line about ¼” (1/2 cm) in from the fold.  You must ensure that you have caught all of the raw edge of the fabric within the ¼” (1/2 cm) fold.

Voila…….. false cuff

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie