Hints & Tips

Archive for the ‘Stretch Tops & Tee Shirts’ Category

There are a number of options when lowering the neckline on jumpers, sweatshirts or other stretch garments.

One option is to unpick the ribbing around the top and use that, however in this case the ribbing was quite narrow, so I opted for lowering the neckline and attaching a contrast red bias binding around the neckline with two rows of stitching securing the bias so it sat flat.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

A lady called to enquire if I could cut the feet out of a pair of machine knitted tights for her small daughter.  Her daughter does ballet, and the tights were for ballet, but she wanted the feet removed so she can wear them normally.  She had taken them to a clothing alteration shop and was told they could not be altered, because they would ladder.

They can be altered with just a little care.  Normally if I was shortening something that was a machine knit, I would sew a row of stitching just above the cut line, but because these had feet, I decided to cut the feet off first, then stitched above the new cut line, I then overlocked just below the stitch line, turned and stitched the hem up, sewing topside, and sewing with my button hole foot.  I learned this little trick in my shops.  The normal domestic sewing machine foot can tend to slip on a stretch fabric, so one day I thought “what about the plastic buttonhole foot”?  It has those little ridges underneath, and they then to grip onto the fabric stopping any slide.  If you sew topside, in other words, you are sewing on the right side of the fabric, and the hem is underneath, you will get a beautiful stitch.  Once you have the first row of stitching done, go back and sew a second row next to the first, using a reference point on the foot to guide you, keeping the same distance from the first row of stitching.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

If you have a sleeve that is too long, a quick option is to sew elastic onto the inside arm seam or shirring elastic upwards on the sleeve.  This could be at the end of the sleeve, below or above the elbow.

I always find it easier to open seams so that the shirring begins at the edge of the fabric, rather than having a join that can be seen.  It also means that when the inside arm seam is stitched closed it LOCKS the shirring into place.

Another option is to cut 15 cm (6″) off the bottom, unpick the hem allowance and the side seams, sew shirring elastic from the hem up the cut piece.  Do this all the way around, then attach back onto the sleeve.  The shirring will gather the fabric which will shorten the sleeve.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Another method to shorten a top is to sew shirring elastic around the waist.  To ensure that the elastic does not pull away, unpick the side seams so the sewing abegins t the edge of the fabric.  The shirring elastic is wound on to your bobbin by hand.  Make sure to wind it on firm rather than having it too loose, but not tight.  The wider the stitch length, the more it will gather.  Mark or place pins where to stitch so that you sew in a straight line.  Never use ball point pens or pencils that cannot be washed out.  Sew the second row beside the first, making sure to keep the edge of the sewing machine foot against the first row of stitching.  Repeat until all the rows are completed.  I wouldn’t do less than six for effect.

The shirring could be around the hip area, or if the fabric is very soft, sew the shirring around the hip area, and then push it up to the waist, allowing the fabric to flop over the shirring.  I would only suggest people who are slim use this option, because it can add bulk to your body shape.

Once all the rows are sewn, stitch across the ends on the side seam BEFORE you join the front and back together.  This will ensure the ends do not come out.  Overlock or bind the side seams once the seams are joined.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

If you have a tee shirt or top that is too long and need a quick fix, try sewing some elastic on to the side seams. I prefer to use elastic that is .6 cm (1/4″) wide, because if the elastic is too wide it will curl.

No need to unpick the hem.  Begin by catching the elastic to the side seam about 8 cm (4″) below the armhole.  Use a zig zag stitch the width of the elastic, but have it so the stitch is wide apart.  Attach the elastic then give it a slight pull as you sew.  The more you pull the tighter the gather.  Attach the elastic down to the top of the hem.  Stop and lock off, then cut the elastic.  Repeat on the opposite side.  This pulls the long tee shirt or top up and gives a nice feature as well.

An added benefit for a lot of people will be the impression you have a waist.  I am thick around the middle, but this feature makes me look like I have a waist.

Other garments you can do this will are the bottom of trousers attaching on either side at the bottom and on the sleeves of tops.

Another option is to stitch elastic on from the hem UP towards the top.  A tee shirt would be a good one for this.  Measure the width from side seam to side seam, then divide the amount evenly across from side to side.  You can have the elastic close together or a little apart.  The affect will change depending on your preference.  Turn the garment inside out and rule across from side to side the point where you will stop.  This way you will have them all even.  Stitch in a thread colour close to the colour of the garment.  I would straight stitch the elastic on in this instance, rather than zig zag, and I would choose elastic that is as thin as possible.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Because tee shirts are stretch they are easy to add panels to.  Unpick the side seam and the sleeve about half way to the shoulder seam on either side.  Cut out a panel from fabric similar to the fabric or in a contrast.  Allow around 7.5 cm (3″) at the top (slightly curved for the armhole, and make a little wider as you come down the panel.  Because you have unpicked the sleeve, you can ease the new panel into the sleeve.  I have done this with a few tee shirts that I bought but found they were too small.  (I have a big bust) Most of the clothes I wear are black, so I had no trouble matching the black stretch fabric. If you want to have a contrast, you can sew some of the different coloured fabric onto the front of the tee to give it balance.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Don’t be afraid to take in the sides of a knitted garment.  The only machine I would not put a knitted garment near is a blind hemming machine.  You could through the timing of the needle because the needle could get caught in the knit and your needle may break or at worst through the timing, which usually means getting the mechanic in to fix it.

 I use Stretch needles when sewing any type of knit.  They are 75/11 and I find they are excellent for these types of fabrics.

 For a very open knit, I tend to push the knit in towards the needle so I am not stretching it as I go.  Try to keep it in the same shape as you sew.  Overlock the excess or cut and bind.

 In most cases I would never unpick the seam of a knit unless I was absolutely sure I was not going to unravel the knitting.

 Happy sewing

 Judith aka genie

I think the question most people would ask is why I would put sleeves into a perfectly good top or dress.  There are a number of reasons you might consider it.  The first would be sun cancer prevention.  If you have a skin that needs to be out of the sun, this is a great option.  The second option would be because as you get older your arms don’t look as flattering as they used to.  And the final reason would be that you find a really lovely top or dress that you love, but it doesn’t have sleeves and you prefer them.

So what to do?  Find yourself some really nice stretch fabric.  There is a fabric called Peek a Boo.  It comes in a range of colours (black being the most popular) and it is a really lovely fabric to work with.  Take your time preparing your garment and you should be able to use any basic sleeve pattern.  Cut a sample out in a cheap stretch fabric first to make sure of the fit.  It’s always best to have a little more room in the head of the sleeve than too little.  Sew a row of stitching around the top of the sleeve from one side to the other in a long stitch.  Pull the threads so you have a very slight ease in the fabric.  I actually prefer to sew two rows of stitching side by side.  It gives a better shape to the head of the sleeve.

Play around with different fabrics and have fun inserting sleeves.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

Do you have one of these in your wardrobe and you don’t wear it because the neck is too big?  I have found an easy solution.  Buy yourself some shearing elastic, and a needle with a big eye, and a blunt end, or use a bodkin.  You should be able to push the needle through and into the band area around the neckline.  Begin at the back where the label is positioned.  Thread the shearing around the neckline inside the band (knitted area) and leave yourself a good amount so that you can make any adjustments to the elastic.

When you have pulled the neckline in to the new desired width, knot the elastic and tuck it into the band.  If you do have to undo the band, just unpick one or two stitches only and resew it later.  Be careful the knit doesn’t ladder on you.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie

When you are making a tee shirt or stretch top you would have your overlocker or serger threaded as a four thread machine.  This gives you the safety stitch and means you don’t have to sew a seam first, then overlock.

But when you are doing the hem, I would recommend you overlock with only three threads.  This gives the hem a lot more flexibility and stretch without the safety stitch.  Also take the right hand needle out and use one needle in the left hand side for a wide overlock.

Some fabrics will become too tight across the grain and then the stitching will break with the safety stitch on.

Another alternative is to purchase a cover stitch machine which solves this problem.  If you are looking for a new machine to buy take a look at the domestic or industrial cover stitch.  For what I do the domestic is excellent.

Happy sewing

Judith aka genie